The road to Italy from Austria involved stopping off in Lienz, which was a very nice town. And it had stuff open which was a bit of a novelty.Note to Tourist information staff in Cortina d'Ampezzo.....before categorically stating that access to an internet terminal is absolutely not possible in town, check that the hotel immediately opposite doesn't have a computer available for immediate use.
I hit the autostrada, passed through some sleepy alpine towns before finally seeing the signs for the Stelvio Pass, my route into Bormio.I had heard much about the Stelvio pass, supposedly it has 48 hairpins as it gains almost 1800 metres in height. Well, I was not prepared for what I found. The hairpins were very tight, the road was narrow and it seemed to go on for ever. The feeling that I was climbing into the clouds became an actuality as visibility came
down to almost zero and the rain turned to snow. It has been 16c in the valley, it was now -1c at 2750m and my shorts and sandals were starting to feel a little inappropriate.The road was barely open at the top...it was like the scene from 'The Thing' when Kurt Russell goes outside at the Antarctic base to investigate noises from the outbuildings....it was hostile. I didn't venture from the car for fear of expiring.
I finally arrived at a campsite in the warm and dry valley, it didn't seem possible that a few k's up the road the weather could be so different.Next morning I set off for a classic loop, down the valley from Bormio, across the feared Mortirolo Pass, up to the huge Gavia Pass and then back down to Bormio.
The base of the climb was a little tricky to find (700m), but soon I was winding my way up hairpins before topping out at 1850 metres. I didn't think it was as hard as everyone (including Lance Armstrong) had said, it was steep and quite long but no too much difference from l'Alpe d'Huez in my estimation. Or maybe my legs are getting stronger.Anyway, I dropped down the other side and headed for Punto di Legno (apparently the home of Benetton ?!) and grabbed a
croissant in a roadside diner. To assist getting there I held on to the side of a tractor and trailer for a bit as they were doing a decent speed. The scene reminded me of those 'Man of the year' award photos...he was driving in a nice clean cab whilst the wife wearing dirty rags was kneeling in filth in the trailer. Oh Well, it was a welcome ride.The waitress at the diner looked a little alarmed when I said I was about to cycle over the Gavia, but I assured her I would be
fine, explaining that I had gloves etc...really it's no problem.Until I got the the base of the climb to be confronted by the horror that the pass was closed ! Aaaagh ! A quick check in a restaurant to see if bikes were ok, and I discovered that the Stelvio was shut too. I was trapped in the wrong valley and the only way to get back was to go over the Mortirilo again...suddenly I was going to look foolish.....I took everything back about it being easy...please spare me ! The other option the lady in the restaurant recommended seemed to involve some town I had never heard of, most probably in the lowlands somewhere.....I might as well have gone back via Rome.
So I took the Mortirilo again. Actually the ride the other way wasn't too bad either, the only downer being the swarm of flies that swirled around me all the way up....I am sure it was the same flies as in Slonvenia. Weird why they do that, I thought it was just me until I rode by a chap who had twice as many above him.
It was a drag up the valley to the campsite, but I followed the wheel of a local chap with sinewy calves...he led me home.As feared, the campsite was echoing to the now very familiar tones of an Austro-pop version of 'Mary had a little lamb'...seriously. Some Austrian cyclists nearby were playing this tape on constant loop. If anyone knows who is responsible for this noise...please let me know as I need to firebomb the recording studio.
Short clips from the last couple of days can be seen here : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fygLa9TdK44
No comments:
Post a Comment